A buddy of mine called me up a week before and asked if I wanted to join him and his missus in Hong Kong for a weekend, and I have to say I had been thinking of an excuse to go away somewhere for the weekend. Of course, VS UC reward flights on the LHR-HKG route are few and far between, so I started looking at paid tickets. VS was very expensive for J. CX was looking good in F, as was SQ. Ive been meaning to try Singapore Airline First for several years ever since their Sky Suite was launched. Now was my chance.
The journeys story started unexpectedly a day early on 4 April, when the Virgin Limobike I'd ordered turned up 24 hours too soon! Not sure if I had a senior moment when booking it up or there was an administration mess up, but Limobike dealt with it very well and called me up the morning of my departure to reconfirm that everything was in order.
My flight wasn't scheduled until 22:15, but I love to arrive early. And so it was, after half an hour dodging the bank holiday getaway I arrived at the airport at 18:05 and negotiated the seemingly never ending construction work at LHR these days, this time at the pick up/drop off zone. My timing couldn't have been better as check in for the flight only opened at 18:00. Check in was through a contract agency. No queue, very polite and efficient. My online check in for this segment was replaced with a 'proper' boarding pass. For some reason my VS FF number had not been registered either when I booked the ticket or when using OLCI, so I tried again. The check-in agent told me where the SQ Lounge was and I asked about whether I'd be OK for the Clubhouse, to which there was a most positive answer.
My predictions about the misery of LHR on a bank holiday seemed to be well founded. The fast track security line went very slowly with, yet again, only one screening section open out of two. Then there's the passport check. Then I was picked out for the shoe check, but I recommend that to prevent this minor inconvenience you deliberately avoid eye contact with the park keeper, unlike I did. The so-called 'Fast Track' security took a total of twenty minutes. I wonder if the airlines have an service level agreement with BAA on this?
Airside it was heaving. Holiday times at airports are like Oxford Steet on the Saturdays on the run up to Christmas. Poor confused souls saunter around looking upwards in search of an inspiring sign that will tell them the way, and in so doing manage to inadvertently exacerbate the congestion already there.
First stop airside was direct to the Clubhouse. At the reception area, a flustered chap on a VS silver card was causing a minor scene. He was sure he was due a gold card real soon now based on his recent flying activity, but to no avail: he was being denied entry. My initial mild empathy rather dissolved when he became rather angry and gave up with the immortal one line attempt at face saving, 'Well, it's your loss not mine'. What annoys me in these circumstances is that it's the front line folks have to put up with this, and they don't make the rules, so coming over all self-important and threatening is hardly going to improve the situation but I guess that's human nature. Equally, I think that airlines could help themselves by making the rules a lot clearer and preferably simpler as I have twice been caught out by confusing and over complicated lounge access rules myself over the years. Still, I hope that on those occasions I dealt with it in a rather more respectful manner and managed to leave with a modicum of self respect.
My first impression of the CH on entry was how busy it all was, so I was hardly expecting to get lucky with a haircut. Well, to my delight luck was on my side and I booked myself a haircut for 7pm - wow, the first time I've managed to get a haircut on spec in the CH! I also took the opportunity to book one for a trip to IAD next month.
With half an hour to kill and the Clubhouse so busy, I decided to take a gander at the SQ Silver Kris lounge located down towards the newly opened T3 section where they will park the A380's, past the SAS lounge. I was directed straight to the F lounge which on first impression is a very conventional lounge indeed, but I had the benefit of being the only person in there. It has capacity for about fifty, although any of the three daily flights SQ run from LHR only have 12 F seats. I am sure top tier elites also get access. Champagne on offer was Moet NV so I had a glass of that and some sushi. Sushi was great in that there was a massive lump of wasabi, but as usual the rice was not fresh so was congealed. By the time I'd popped the food and beverage down me, it was time to wonder back to the CH for my trim. All very efficient, the CH gatekeeper recognised me and I strolled straight in, and within minutes was sat down for my cut.
My intention was to spend most of the time in the CH rather than the SK lounge, but my initial attempt at a quiet sit down catching up with email was met with children running around screaming at my feet. As it didnt look as if Id have much improvement elsewhere in the CH today, I gave up and chose the relative calm back at SQ's offering. On returning the Silver Kris F lounge I found myself a nice relaxing quiet recliner hidden away in a corner, away from a couple of guys who were watching the footie and making the usual opinionated comments about the ref's qualities (or lack of them).
One thing I noticed at T3 is that there is now no need to re-enter security if you decide to wonder backwards and forwards between the lounge areas and the duty free. This may have been in place for a while, but it is certainly an improvement.
The flight was called at about 21:30, and after Windows refused to hibernate or shutdown forcing a big red switch operation (this annoyance also happens way too often when the bell sounds with ten minutes to landing), I took the long walk down to the gates where it was a scrum. I asked the security pre check agent at the gate entrance if there was a priority boarding line, and he pointed aimlessly towards the throng. Oh well, I couldn't bring myself to attempt to barge through so I waited in line with everyone else. I passed another agent in the line after about five minutes who rechecked my paperwork, but otherwise didn't seem to be interested. Then an SQ staffer who had finally seen that the premium pax were turning up started dutifully combing the queue. He got to me and pulled me out, escorting me right to the front ensuring that I was dealt with immediately, addressing me by name. Now this was the kind of service I had been waiting for.
Despite there being no separate jetway for F/J that I noticed, there was no queue on the airbridge. On boarding I was directed towards my seat for the next twelve hours, 1B. This is the only seat in row one, a seat right at the pointy end on its own. You get your own private views out of both sides of the aircraft. You also get to arrive at your destination before the pilot.
From now on I was, without fail, always addressed as Mr Long. Popped on my Givenchy PJ's and started sipping on the Dom Perignon '99 on offer. The flight attendant apologised for only having one colour of pyjamas in my size!
Despite having no adjacent overhead bins in row one, there is lots of space for your stuff in front of you below the table and writing desk. You are also right next to two wardrobes where the passengers' clothing is stored. I was concerned that possible continual opening and closing would lead to restless sleep but I didn't encounter any problems myself. Ten of the twelve seats were occupied, with four flight attendants. With this kind of personal attention, life was always going to be very civilised.
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The view from seat 1B on SQ's 744s, video here
The seat was very comfortable, and although I wouldn't say it was particularly huge, it was certainly not at all claustrophobic. It felt very private, although that was more due to its location on its own at the front than the seat design itself. As a comparison, BA First seats benefit from the natural privacy of their herringbone layout, pointing towards the window, as well as a more substantial surround around the back of the seat itself. Conversations from the seats directly behind were unfortunately clearly audible, in particular throughout the safety briefing. Sorry, but folks talking throughout the safety briefing is a pet peeve of mine. I don't care if they won't listen, but I do if I can't. I don't know why but this rude and ignorant trait seems to be increasingly prevalent, but I am always in awe when an FA comes over and embarrasses a pax into shutting up. Sadly I have a feeling that people who chat away in these circumstances are the type who are too thick skinned and self important to even realise what they're doing.
We took off pretty much on time and the IFE was switched on very soon after takeoff. It took me a while to get accustomed to the IFE sufficiently to use it - I am sure I wasn't doing it quite right, but if it works, don't fix it, right? There were many film and TV options but the selections didnt seem quite as extensive as those on VS or EK. I settled down for Casino Royale and some of their Learning channel stuff like Heston Blumenthal and even (shudder) Jamie. I was quite impressed by how entertaining Heston was, although I certainly wasnt expecting to be.
One of the exceptional facets of the service was the constant supply of individually heated hot towels. I lost count at about seven rounds. Shortly after takeoff another glass of Dom Perignon arrived with some warmed nuts: there was a selection of three different types of nuts, I took the cashews. For my meal selection I selected caviar for a starter and Id pre-booked lobster thermidor with the SQ book the cook service, affectionately, if rather colloquially, known as BTC. You could also order a salad and a soup course in between. The caviar was OK but something was missing. It was served with the usual accompaniments of chopped egg white, yolk and onion but I missed blinis and sour cream badly. There was melba toast but its just not quite right. The lobster thermidor was OK but I didnt think it was much to write home about, and the lobster was pretty rubbery. Presentation was good throughout, but the flavours were just not there. The wine on the other hand was great I had a Chablis, (2003 Domaine Laroche): normally I like my chardonnays buttery and oaky but I still appreciated this Chablis, surprisingly having more oomph behind than I was expecting.
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Caviar: not all it's cracked up to be on SQ
Next I went for a cheese course. Now, this is the way to do it. They bring around a proper cheese board with the days selections. No pre-cut freezing cold tasteless stuff here. The cheese had clearly been left out to warm up and what a difference it makes. The cheddar in particular was superbly tasty with the yarg and Camembert less so. The sharp blue was really good too. Plus I got my chance to try the Pichon Lalande 1998 and 20 year old Grahams Tawny Port. Well as soon as they poured the port I could see I was going to love it a really brown maroon colour, this was going to work with some desert.
So for desert I asked to forgo the menus selection of some over elaborate mango, yoghurt ice cream and something coulis or other in lieu of a simple vanilla ice cream from one of the back cabins. Sadly I didnt make myself clear and unfortunately I ended up with the yoghurt ice cream. Oh well. So I just had the ice cream and port separately.
To almost finish off I ordered a mint tea (no fresh mint Im afraid, unlike EK F). One of the FAs turned the seat into a bed with a mattress and duvet, leaving me to drift off for a good six hours. I came to of my own accord and despite dozing I felt it was time to get up. This was one of the few times during long haul air travel that I actually felt refreshed rather than bleary eyed, despite only getting six hours of sleep.
Breakfast was duly served, and I took a fruit plate, the worlds freshest, warm and buttery croissant at 35,000 and freshly made scrambled eggs and smoked salmon, with some mushrooms. Presentation was rather mediocre but it tasted rather good.
I tried my QC3s for the first time on a long haul. They are definitely very comfortable to wear while youre watching the telly. But I like to wear them as I drift off to sleep. The problem that I was concerned would happen with the QC3s is that they fall off as you toss and turn, and sadly I was proved right. Additionally, they have a propensity to feed back more than the QC2s if you get your head in the wrong position. So it's back to the QC2s I'm afraid, and I'll keep the QC3s for the gym.
This is going to sound really non-PC and old fashioned but it would be disingenuous of me not to mention it. The Singapore Girl really is all she is (or was) hyped up to be. Perhaps the traditional dress thats been unchanged for so long does seem ever so slightly dated, but it was without exception flattering to wear. OK lets not beat around the bush. They are stunners. There, I've said it.
Now this is going to sound retentive, but the loos were kept spotlessly clean throughout the flight, and I mean spotless. Ive had a number of recent VS flights where the bogs stink in UC on the ground before weve even taken off.
We landed at the gate at Changi about twenty minutes early. I could see that they were already moving two jetways in, but what I wasnt expecting was that F had an entire jetway to themselves. Opening the door was so fast I was getting quite flustered getting my bag properly packed with the amenity kit (remember those, v-flyers?), socks, eyeshades, etc etc.I just about got my timing right and I followed the rest of the F cabin out to the joy of seeing no-one else coming off the other bridge yet.
I made my way to the SQ F Silver Kris lounge for the hour or so before my next flight. Also I met up with an SQTalk regular in there for a couple of glasses of Dom. I was definitely impressed that this quality of grog is served in the lounge.
In conclusion, I had a great sleep, and personal attention was second to none, especially always being referred to as Mr Long. I did have one of those special feelings being on my own in 1B, and I certainly wasnt going to change this on the return segment. On the down side, food was OK but a little mediocre. The wines were excellent even though the whites were not quite my favourite. Did I want to get off the plane? Of course not. Id barely polished off one bottle on board. Oh, maybe one and a half then. Based on this one flight, would I rate SQ above BA/QF/EK/AA for an intercontinental F product? Certainly yes against AA, but based on the food experience, judgement has yet to be laid down! Stay tuned!
