Okay, so this is the second part of my trip report following our visit to South Africa back in April last year (I know its been 9 months since the original but Ive had an MBA to finish!). Advanced warning this trip report is a long one. Part one covered our flight out to JNB with BA in F part two covers our two night stay at Ulusaba Private Game Reserve
Having researched our holiday online, we made our booking direct with Virgin Limited Edition over the phone. Craig was really helpful and quickly sorted out all the details including our transfer flight from JNB to Ulusabas private airstrip.
Once we passed through customs at JNB, we were met by a representative of Federal Air who operate a scheduled shuttle service around a number of the Kruger Reserve lodges, including Ulusaba. Once a few other passengers had emerged out into the scrum that is JNB arrivals, the rep arranged for a porter to carry our bags as we followed her across the terminal to their office nearby. Once bottles of water had been handed around we were loaded up into the minibus for a short ten minute ride out to their terminal building on the opposite side of the airport from the main terminals.
The Federal Air terminal is in the middle of a small trading estate on the edge of the air field driving past rows of planes in a variety of sizes (and pieces!), you arrive at a small building with a number of attendants waiting for your arrival. Your bags are quickly reunited with you before they are weighed on a set of small scales outside the front door, tagged, and then piled under the appropriate sign with your flight details on. The day we were there it looked as if there was around eight flights going out, all with growing piles of bags and cases. Mrs nibbs had spent some time trying to ensure that we met with the 20kg per bag limit, but we ended up with three in the hold rather than two. That said, the total weight of the three was still under 40kg (Fed Air have free luggage storage at their terminal for those with bags for later sections of their travel as an option).
Inside, check-in consisted of a lady sat at a coffee table who handed you a laminated card with your flight number on when your number is called, your card gets you on the plane. And that was it! No security, no lines, no agro! We also worked out that the hold baggage didnt go through any scanners either - judging by the way the bags appeared piled up on a trolley, pushed from the front of the building straight to the waiting planes.
The lounge was a combination of an inside seating area and an external patio with a bar, hot drinks and range of sandwiches, crisps and cakes very civilised! It was a glorious day, and although the patio looked attractive, the air conditioned lounge was more comfortable than the mid morning heat. We had allowed a couple of hours for the transfer so we had around an hour to chill out before our flight was called. Whilst alcohol was available, soft drinks and a sandwich was more than enough after a long flight.
Our flight was called on time, and having surrendered our cards, we were escorted out onto the ramp to our waiting plane. Now here I must apologise it had two wings, 12 seats and a single engine thats as much as I can tell you about it!! Oh, it was pressurised as well and it flew at 24,000 feet. It was great being able to look over the shoulders of the pilots sat just a couple of feet in front. However, the pilot looked like he should have been at school I must be getting old!
There was a short delay as an emergency had been called by an incoming cargo plane that had landing gear problems. We watched the drama unfold from the edge of the airport with a running commentary from the pilot. In the end, all was well with around four fire engines chasing it down the runway. The funniest thing was that once it landed it could only turn left (steering was jammed), resulting in even more delays to the entire airport as it took a rather convoluted route across to the hangers.
Finally we were off. It was the smallest plane by far that either of us had ever flown in and initially felt a little odd. However, the views over South Africa were incredible with some of the cloud formations quite breathtaking while I was taking it all in and snapping away on the camera, Mrs nibbs was asleep before we took off and needed waking on final approach some 90 minutes later!
Neither of us had ever been on a safari before and my first impressions of the terrain as we flew over the start of Kruger Park really surprised me. I guess I was expecting a sandy, barren land instead, it was green and lush. In fact, it was green as far as the eye could see. It was only when we started to descend and banking quite rapidly that you could spot a strip of tarmac appear from nowhere. We were quickly on the ground and after the worlds shortest taxi, we had arrived at Ulusaba.
Another couple got out with us with the remaining passengers staying onboard ready for a quick hop to another lodge. A family of four took our place having finished their holidays. The next 48 hours were full of surprises and experiences that would leave you with a cheesy grin on your face. Arrival was no different.
Ulusaba airport is a strip of tarmac and a thatched cottage as a terminal building! Its open sides give way to leather sofas where you sit whilst filling out your registration cards being served from a freshly opened bottle of champagne I was impressed by T5 but Ulusaba has to be the best airport in the world (okay, there were no shops but hey, thats a good thing isnt it?!).
We had been met by our ranger and tracker (Steve and Twlani) who would be our guides for our entire stay. Champagne finished, we jumped into the back of the waiting jeeps and took the five minute trip up the hill to Rock Lodge.
Ulusaba is split into two very distinct community areas. Rock Lodge sits high on the koppie (hill) overlooking the surrounding bush whilst Safari Lodge sits on the bank of the dry riverbed where the animals are literally below your feet (most of the buildings are up on stilts with raised walkways and bridges joining them. Each lodge is self contained with separate dining and leisure facilities but guests are free to go between them and use the facilities at each (although you cant walk between them as there is plenty of wildlife in the area more on that later!).
As our jeep arrived in Rock Lodge, a small welcoming party was there to greet us big smiling faces, lots of energy and a real sense that they were pleased to welcome you to their home. The general manager (whose name I have since forgotten, but a really great guy all the same) gave us a guided tour of all the facilities before one of the team escorted us to our room. All the rooms are linked together by a series of paths at different levels on the side of the koppie. We had booked the Master Suite, a split level room which took the breath away as soon as you walked in.
The main room had a huge bed with a lower level sitting area with coffee table, books and a telescope to take out onto the balcony. The plunge pool was outside a separate set of patio doors, overlooked by the bathroom a nice touch meaning you could sit on the toilet or in the bath and see what was going on in the plunge pool!! Furnishings were in tune with our safari location with no expense spared.
During our tour we were given a range of safety information which you would expect at such a location the two most memorable items being to keep the bedroom windows and doors shut to keep the baboons out and after dark, if you left your room you must phone for an escort due to the leopard who wanders around the lodge and bathes in the pool!
We quickly unpacked as we were keen to explore the lodge and get some lunch. The heart of the lodge is a fantastic bar and dining room area with three sides looking out over the bush below. Dark wood panels, deep soft chairs and an amazing single long dining room table mix with a circular, open bar with every beverage you could hope for. One side of the room opens up onto the outside seating area where lunch and breakfast is served under wide sun umbrellas overlooking fantastic views in all directions.
Carrying on past this is a winding wooden path that splits up to a high level pavilion where the gym is located and down to the spa pavilion, each being remote from the main building. Below the dining room is the lounge. A large room, ideally suited for the kids with books, a TV, playstation, internet PC and other games. We actually found this room by accident on our last day I guess we didnt get much further than the bar up until then! Above the dining room is a pool area with a separate little pavilion for private dining and sun beds for general chilling out.
Lunch was chosen from a broad menu with an extra tip that if we wanted something not listed, they could probably do that as well. The wine was flowing and weather was fantastic any tiredness from the flight had soon been replaced by the excitement of our new home.
It wasnt long until it was time for our first game drive. Everyone meets up in the dining room where theres time for a coffee and one (or more) of the delicious cakes that will keep you going until dinner. There was a good atmosphere with all of the rangers sharing the refreshments with plenty of friendly banter between rangers and guests alike.
Once loaded into our jeep by Steve, a quick safety brief on what to expect and what not to do was quickly completed. Each jeep holds nine people in three rows of three, with the rear seats being raised slightly for a better view. Capes are provided for wet weather, fleece blankets are available to keep you warm once the sun goes down and if the weather gets that bad, they have a canopy roof that keeps the worst of the elements out. Only four of us were in the jeep and it was fantastic. We all got really friendly and there was plenty of room for everyone when it came to getting that great photo.
Within two minutes of leaving the lodge, Twlani had found our first animals a pack of lions directly between Rock Lodge and Safari Lodge. Another thing that we soon realised was just how close we were to the animals they were literally brushing down the side of the jeep it was incredible. We sat there for twenty minutes watching them move around with Steve giving a running commentary on their history before moving off to give other jeeps the opportunity to get close.
All of the jeeps are linked by radio so that sightings are quickly shared. We went through spells of following other jeeps to being completely out on our own and without another human in sight or sound.
It was a call over the radio that helped us find a leopard, casually walking along a dirt track, ignoring the two jeeps and the noises from a dozen cameras all clicking away. Once the other jeep had moved on, Steve followed her, not only down the track but right through the bush as well, and I mean right through it! The power and abilities of the jeeps were amazing, although Im not sure that the conservationists would approve too much of some of the debris left being (like flattened trees and bushes). Steve was telling us that the private games reserves (such as Ulusaba) allowed the jeeps to go where they wanted whilst other public reserves restricted jeeps to roads and tracks only. Having experienced what we did, I would only recommend the private reserves to get the most from your holiday.
As dusk fell Steve found a small open area of rocks before stopping and giving us chance to stretch our legs we had been on the game drive for around 2.5 hours this sounds a long time but believe me, it flashes by. We turned around and the guys had set up a bar on the front of the jeep along with nibbles. When we asked when the rest of the jeeps were showing up they laughed and said that this was all for us!
One of the great things about Ulusaba is how passionate the rangers and trackers are about their work. Even when we had stopped for a drink, Steve was getting us to be silent to take in the noises of the African bush as the animals either go to sleep or start their hunting - a truly remarkable experience one made more comfortable by the sight of Steves rifle on the dashboard, just in case!
More wine and champagne later, we were back at the lodge. With no time for a shower, but a quick change of clothes and we were all back in the dining room for a welcome back drink served by the rangers. Once dinner was ready, the rangers left and all the guests sat down to eat together and share their adventures of the day.
I cant remember what we ate but it was great food. Once again, the drinks flowed so readily that you felt guilty when you refused your glass being filled up for the umpteenth time! Ive already mentioned the spirit of the place, but with a roaring log fire as a back drop and some amazing chairs around the table, the scene was something like nothing that I could compare to.
Our tiredness started to creep back in, along with the majority of the guests, so we wished our new friends a goodnight before asking for an escort for the few steps back to home. Thats when we got the lineso Neil and Tracy, well give you a wake-up call at 5:30 and well meet back up at six. The look I got from Mrs nibbs reminded me that I had forgotten to mention how early the morning game drives were!
I cant remember anything after getting into bed other than the phone ringing not long afterwards unfortunately it was 5:30 fortunately, the phone was on Mrs nibbs side of the bed!
Considering the time of day, the 6am guest gathering held plenty of excitement. Coffee and pastries were a welcome filler until breakfast. It was a clear sky, although still very dark but the first signs of the rising sun were beginning to appear from the hills in the east. It was quite chilly but the guys handed out fleece ponchos which were great (I wondered how many of them managed to disappear but behaved myself and resisted the temptation).
The same four of us were back out with Steve and Twlani who both live on site in the staff village around the back of the koppie. We were asked if there were any particular animals we would like to see, with elephants and giraffes being the agreed targets.
I dont possess the vocabulary to do the morning game drive justice. Being in the middle of the bush, with not another soul in sight, watching the sun come up whilst so many wild animals and birds pass you by is something that you just have to experience at least once in your life. To do so in the amazing environment provided by the Ulusaba team just makes the whole thing even more special.
Giraffes were quickly ticked off, spotted walking up the track in front of us, busily munching on the green foliage. But it took a good 90 minutes to find some elephants but it was worth it. Steve timed his trip to the water hole with perfection. Not only did we spot a pair of hippos relaxing in the early sun, we arrived a few seconds before around 30 elephants arrived for their morning dip, babies and all! They were there for no longer than five minutes, and then they were gone. A surreal experience and one that you felt privileged to have witnessed.
Having seen so many elephants together, when we later found two on their own we didnt think that they would top what we had witnessed at the water hole. However, when they started to fight within feet of our jeep it caught everybodys attention, including Steves! It was the only time he look a little uncomfortable on our drives and quickly moved the jeep before we got flattened.
And so the game drives continued. I could spend hours describing what we saw across the four game drives and post more of the near 900 photos we took (a digital camera with the best zoom lens you can get your hands on is a must) and also the little treats that were laid on by the Ulusaba team - but that would spoil the surprise for you just accept that it is well worth doing!
When we werent out on the game drives, we were eating and drinking (it never stopped!). But we did find some time to go down to Safari Lodge to visit the shop that sold a combination of locally made gifts and clothing as well as film, batteries and even cameras. We also asked to take a walk out to the tree house a wooden pavilion overlooking the water hole where groups can dine together or as a fantastic location to get married. A series of gangways and wooden bridges carry you above the bush on the way out to the tree house giving a birds eye view of all the animals below.
Mrs nibbs also took time for a massage in the spa from one of VSs IFBTs who cover Ulusabas spa on rotation. I thought about using the gym and then quickly came to my senses! The lodges share two tennis courts with its own building which we passed many times but never had time to make use of them.
At a place like Ulusaba, 48 hours is quickly over and it was time to leave on the start of our journey down to Cape Town. The majority of the team was there to see us off before Steve drove us down to the airstrip. We sat under the thatched roof waiting for our plane to pick us up really sad to be leaving. Ulusaba is a magic place. Sure, SRB and his team have created a fantastic hotel, but the natural environment that it sits on and the animals that inhabit the area really do make for a fantastic combination.
Ulusaba is not cheap neither is it a place that you are likely to go to every year. The guest comments book in the bar makes for a really interesting read with many of the great and good who have visited leaving their mark as well as many average families who leave loving messages for the animals and the staff! Even members of the metropolitan police protection squad left messages of enjoyment there looking after Tony, Cherie and Leo Blair a few weeks before our visit!
Money aside, I would suggest at least 4 to 5 nights if you can afford it. The days are long and tiring and you do need to recharge the batteries if you are going to get the most out of your stay. Where we jammed in so much in a short time, we were shattered when we left happy but shattered! Every game drive is different and Im not sure that I could ever get bored watching so many animals.
We took far too many clothes the whole place is pretty casual and even at dinner, everyone has the same short time between getting back from the game drive and meeting back up again. A fleece for the late nights and early mornings is useful though.
Looking back there was still plenty of things that I wish wed had time to do. Ulusaba has its own observatory out in the bush with no light pollution, the views are supposed to be incredible. Also, you have the option to have dinner in a variety of locations I quite like the idea of eating dinner out in the bush! Finally, Ulusaba has strong links to the local community, including tours to the local village and schools perhaps this is something for our next visit.
From Ulusaba we travelled to Camps Bay, a small town on the coast just outside Cape Town. We spent a week at the Camps Bay Retreat and had a great time. A quick word about the Codfather - the best fish restaurant we have ever been to just down the road from our hotel! Highly recommended.
Although Ulusaba, for me, was the highlight of our holiday, it was good to have a relaxing few days afterwards if you are there longer, I would probably finish with Ulusaba though.
If you have made it to the end, I hope you enjoyed my ramblings! Im happy to answer any questions you may have and to carry your bags if you decide to go.
Cheers!
nibbbs
Having researched our holiday online, we made our booking direct with Virgin Limited Edition over the phone. Craig was really helpful and quickly sorted out all the details including our transfer flight from JNB to Ulusabas private airstrip.
Once we passed through customs at JNB, we were met by a representative of Federal Air who operate a scheduled shuttle service around a number of the Kruger Reserve lodges, including Ulusaba. Once a few other passengers had emerged out into the scrum that is JNB arrivals, the rep arranged for a porter to carry our bags as we followed her across the terminal to their office nearby. Once bottles of water had been handed around we were loaded up into the minibus for a short ten minute ride out to their terminal building on the opposite side of the airport from the main terminals.
The Federal Air terminal is in the middle of a small trading estate on the edge of the air field driving past rows of planes in a variety of sizes (and pieces!), you arrive at a small building with a number of attendants waiting for your arrival. Your bags are quickly reunited with you before they are weighed on a set of small scales outside the front door, tagged, and then piled under the appropriate sign with your flight details on. The day we were there it looked as if there was around eight flights going out, all with growing piles of bags and cases. Mrs nibbs had spent some time trying to ensure that we met with the 20kg per bag limit, but we ended up with three in the hold rather than two. That said, the total weight of the three was still under 40kg (Fed Air have free luggage storage at their terminal for those with bags for later sections of their travel as an option).
Inside, check-in consisted of a lady sat at a coffee table who handed you a laminated card with your flight number on when your number is called, your card gets you on the plane. And that was it! No security, no lines, no agro! We also worked out that the hold baggage didnt go through any scanners either - judging by the way the bags appeared piled up on a trolley, pushed from the front of the building straight to the waiting planes.
The lounge was a combination of an inside seating area and an external patio with a bar, hot drinks and range of sandwiches, crisps and cakes very civilised! It was a glorious day, and although the patio looked attractive, the air conditioned lounge was more comfortable than the mid morning heat. We had allowed a couple of hours for the transfer so we had around an hour to chill out before our flight was called. Whilst alcohol was available, soft drinks and a sandwich was more than enough after a long flight.
Our flight was called on time, and having surrendered our cards, we were escorted out onto the ramp to our waiting plane. Now here I must apologise it had two wings, 12 seats and a single engine thats as much as I can tell you about it!! Oh, it was pressurised as well and it flew at 24,000 feet. It was great being able to look over the shoulders of the pilots sat just a couple of feet in front. However, the pilot looked like he should have been at school I must be getting old!
There was a short delay as an emergency had been called by an incoming cargo plane that had landing gear problems. We watched the drama unfold from the edge of the airport with a running commentary from the pilot. In the end, all was well with around four fire engines chasing it down the runway. The funniest thing was that once it landed it could only turn left (steering was jammed), resulting in even more delays to the entire airport as it took a rather convoluted route across to the hangers.
Finally we were off. It was the smallest plane by far that either of us had ever flown in and initially felt a little odd. However, the views over South Africa were incredible with some of the cloud formations quite breathtaking while I was taking it all in and snapping away on the camera, Mrs nibbs was asleep before we took off and needed waking on final approach some 90 minutes later!
Neither of us had ever been on a safari before and my first impressions of the terrain as we flew over the start of Kruger Park really surprised me. I guess I was expecting a sandy, barren land instead, it was green and lush. In fact, it was green as far as the eye could see. It was only when we started to descend and banking quite rapidly that you could spot a strip of tarmac appear from nowhere. We were quickly on the ground and after the worlds shortest taxi, we had arrived at Ulusaba.
Another couple got out with us with the remaining passengers staying onboard ready for a quick hop to another lodge. A family of four took our place having finished their holidays. The next 48 hours were full of surprises and experiences that would leave you with a cheesy grin on your face. Arrival was no different.
Ulusaba airport is a strip of tarmac and a thatched cottage as a terminal building! Its open sides give way to leather sofas where you sit whilst filling out your registration cards being served from a freshly opened bottle of champagne I was impressed by T5 but Ulusaba has to be the best airport in the world (okay, there were no shops but hey, thats a good thing isnt it?!).
We had been met by our ranger and tracker (Steve and Twlani) who would be our guides for our entire stay. Champagne finished, we jumped into the back of the waiting jeeps and took the five minute trip up the hill to Rock Lodge.
Ulusaba is split into two very distinct community areas. Rock Lodge sits high on the koppie (hill) overlooking the surrounding bush whilst Safari Lodge sits on the bank of the dry riverbed where the animals are literally below your feet (most of the buildings are up on stilts with raised walkways and bridges joining them. Each lodge is self contained with separate dining and leisure facilities but guests are free to go between them and use the facilities at each (although you cant walk between them as there is plenty of wildlife in the area more on that later!).
As our jeep arrived in Rock Lodge, a small welcoming party was there to greet us big smiling faces, lots of energy and a real sense that they were pleased to welcome you to their home. The general manager (whose name I have since forgotten, but a really great guy all the same) gave us a guided tour of all the facilities before one of the team escorted us to our room. All the rooms are linked together by a series of paths at different levels on the side of the koppie. We had booked the Master Suite, a split level room which took the breath away as soon as you walked in.
The main room had a huge bed with a lower level sitting area with coffee table, books and a telescope to take out onto the balcony. The plunge pool was outside a separate set of patio doors, overlooked by the bathroom a nice touch meaning you could sit on the toilet or in the bath and see what was going on in the plunge pool!! Furnishings were in tune with our safari location with no expense spared.
During our tour we were given a range of safety information which you would expect at such a location the two most memorable items being to keep the bedroom windows and doors shut to keep the baboons out and after dark, if you left your room you must phone for an escort due to the leopard who wanders around the lodge and bathes in the pool!
We quickly unpacked as we were keen to explore the lodge and get some lunch. The heart of the lodge is a fantastic bar and dining room area with three sides looking out over the bush below. Dark wood panels, deep soft chairs and an amazing single long dining room table mix with a circular, open bar with every beverage you could hope for. One side of the room opens up onto the outside seating area where lunch and breakfast is served under wide sun umbrellas overlooking fantastic views in all directions.
Carrying on past this is a winding wooden path that splits up to a high level pavilion where the gym is located and down to the spa pavilion, each being remote from the main building. Below the dining room is the lounge. A large room, ideally suited for the kids with books, a TV, playstation, internet PC and other games. We actually found this room by accident on our last day I guess we didnt get much further than the bar up until then! Above the dining room is a pool area with a separate little pavilion for private dining and sun beds for general chilling out.
Lunch was chosen from a broad menu with an extra tip that if we wanted something not listed, they could probably do that as well. The wine was flowing and weather was fantastic any tiredness from the flight had soon been replaced by the excitement of our new home.
It wasnt long until it was time for our first game drive. Everyone meets up in the dining room where theres time for a coffee and one (or more) of the delicious cakes that will keep you going until dinner. There was a good atmosphere with all of the rangers sharing the refreshments with plenty of friendly banter between rangers and guests alike.
Once loaded into our jeep by Steve, a quick safety brief on what to expect and what not to do was quickly completed. Each jeep holds nine people in three rows of three, with the rear seats being raised slightly for a better view. Capes are provided for wet weather, fleece blankets are available to keep you warm once the sun goes down and if the weather gets that bad, they have a canopy roof that keeps the worst of the elements out. Only four of us were in the jeep and it was fantastic. We all got really friendly and there was plenty of room for everyone when it came to getting that great photo.
Within two minutes of leaving the lodge, Twlani had found our first animals a pack of lions directly between Rock Lodge and Safari Lodge. Another thing that we soon realised was just how close we were to the animals they were literally brushing down the side of the jeep it was incredible. We sat there for twenty minutes watching them move around with Steve giving a running commentary on their history before moving off to give other jeeps the opportunity to get close.
All of the jeeps are linked by radio so that sightings are quickly shared. We went through spells of following other jeeps to being completely out on our own and without another human in sight or sound.
It was a call over the radio that helped us find a leopard, casually walking along a dirt track, ignoring the two jeeps and the noises from a dozen cameras all clicking away. Once the other jeep had moved on, Steve followed her, not only down the track but right through the bush as well, and I mean right through it! The power and abilities of the jeeps were amazing, although Im not sure that the conservationists would approve too much of some of the debris left being (like flattened trees and bushes). Steve was telling us that the private games reserves (such as Ulusaba) allowed the jeeps to go where they wanted whilst other public reserves restricted jeeps to roads and tracks only. Having experienced what we did, I would only recommend the private reserves to get the most from your holiday.
As dusk fell Steve found a small open area of rocks before stopping and giving us chance to stretch our legs we had been on the game drive for around 2.5 hours this sounds a long time but believe me, it flashes by. We turned around and the guys had set up a bar on the front of the jeep along with nibbles. When we asked when the rest of the jeeps were showing up they laughed and said that this was all for us!
One of the great things about Ulusaba is how passionate the rangers and trackers are about their work. Even when we had stopped for a drink, Steve was getting us to be silent to take in the noises of the African bush as the animals either go to sleep or start their hunting - a truly remarkable experience one made more comfortable by the sight of Steves rifle on the dashboard, just in case!
More wine and champagne later, we were back at the lodge. With no time for a shower, but a quick change of clothes and we were all back in the dining room for a welcome back drink served by the rangers. Once dinner was ready, the rangers left and all the guests sat down to eat together and share their adventures of the day.
I cant remember what we ate but it was great food. Once again, the drinks flowed so readily that you felt guilty when you refused your glass being filled up for the umpteenth time! Ive already mentioned the spirit of the place, but with a roaring log fire as a back drop and some amazing chairs around the table, the scene was something like nothing that I could compare to.
Our tiredness started to creep back in, along with the majority of the guests, so we wished our new friends a goodnight before asking for an escort for the few steps back to home. Thats when we got the lineso Neil and Tracy, well give you a wake-up call at 5:30 and well meet back up at six. The look I got from Mrs nibbs reminded me that I had forgotten to mention how early the morning game drives were!
I cant remember anything after getting into bed other than the phone ringing not long afterwards unfortunately it was 5:30 fortunately, the phone was on Mrs nibbs side of the bed!
Considering the time of day, the 6am guest gathering held plenty of excitement. Coffee and pastries were a welcome filler until breakfast. It was a clear sky, although still very dark but the first signs of the rising sun were beginning to appear from the hills in the east. It was quite chilly but the guys handed out fleece ponchos which were great (I wondered how many of them managed to disappear but behaved myself and resisted the temptation).
The same four of us were back out with Steve and Twlani who both live on site in the staff village around the back of the koppie. We were asked if there were any particular animals we would like to see, with elephants and giraffes being the agreed targets.
I dont possess the vocabulary to do the morning game drive justice. Being in the middle of the bush, with not another soul in sight, watching the sun come up whilst so many wild animals and birds pass you by is something that you just have to experience at least once in your life. To do so in the amazing environment provided by the Ulusaba team just makes the whole thing even more special.
Giraffes were quickly ticked off, spotted walking up the track in front of us, busily munching on the green foliage. But it took a good 90 minutes to find some elephants but it was worth it. Steve timed his trip to the water hole with perfection. Not only did we spot a pair of hippos relaxing in the early sun, we arrived a few seconds before around 30 elephants arrived for their morning dip, babies and all! They were there for no longer than five minutes, and then they were gone. A surreal experience and one that you felt privileged to have witnessed.
Having seen so many elephants together, when we later found two on their own we didnt think that they would top what we had witnessed at the water hole. However, when they started to fight within feet of our jeep it caught everybodys attention, including Steves! It was the only time he look a little uncomfortable on our drives and quickly moved the jeep before we got flattened.
And so the game drives continued. I could spend hours describing what we saw across the four game drives and post more of the near 900 photos we took (a digital camera with the best zoom lens you can get your hands on is a must) and also the little treats that were laid on by the Ulusaba team - but that would spoil the surprise for you just accept that it is well worth doing!
When we werent out on the game drives, we were eating and drinking (it never stopped!). But we did find some time to go down to Safari Lodge to visit the shop that sold a combination of locally made gifts and clothing as well as film, batteries and even cameras. We also asked to take a walk out to the tree house a wooden pavilion overlooking the water hole where groups can dine together or as a fantastic location to get married. A series of gangways and wooden bridges carry you above the bush on the way out to the tree house giving a birds eye view of all the animals below.
Mrs nibbs also took time for a massage in the spa from one of VSs IFBTs who cover Ulusabas spa on rotation. I thought about using the gym and then quickly came to my senses! The lodges share two tennis courts with its own building which we passed many times but never had time to make use of them.
At a place like Ulusaba, 48 hours is quickly over and it was time to leave on the start of our journey down to Cape Town. The majority of the team was there to see us off before Steve drove us down to the airstrip. We sat under the thatched roof waiting for our plane to pick us up really sad to be leaving. Ulusaba is a magic place. Sure, SRB and his team have created a fantastic hotel, but the natural environment that it sits on and the animals that inhabit the area really do make for a fantastic combination.
Ulusaba is not cheap neither is it a place that you are likely to go to every year. The guest comments book in the bar makes for a really interesting read with many of the great and good who have visited leaving their mark as well as many average families who leave loving messages for the animals and the staff! Even members of the metropolitan police protection squad left messages of enjoyment there looking after Tony, Cherie and Leo Blair a few weeks before our visit!
Money aside, I would suggest at least 4 to 5 nights if you can afford it. The days are long and tiring and you do need to recharge the batteries if you are going to get the most out of your stay. Where we jammed in so much in a short time, we were shattered when we left happy but shattered! Every game drive is different and Im not sure that I could ever get bored watching so many animals.
We took far too many clothes the whole place is pretty casual and even at dinner, everyone has the same short time between getting back from the game drive and meeting back up again. A fleece for the late nights and early mornings is useful though.
Looking back there was still plenty of things that I wish wed had time to do. Ulusaba has its own observatory out in the bush with no light pollution, the views are supposed to be incredible. Also, you have the option to have dinner in a variety of locations I quite like the idea of eating dinner out in the bush! Finally, Ulusaba has strong links to the local community, including tours to the local village and schools perhaps this is something for our next visit.
From Ulusaba we travelled to Camps Bay, a small town on the coast just outside Cape Town. We spent a week at the Camps Bay Retreat and had a great time. A quick word about the Codfather - the best fish restaurant we have ever been to just down the road from our hotel! Highly recommended.
Although Ulusaba, for me, was the highlight of our holiday, it was good to have a relaxing few days afterwards if you are there longer, I would probably finish with Ulusaba though.
If you have made it to the end, I hope you enjoyed my ramblings! Im happy to answer any questions you may have and to carry your bags if you decide to go.
Cheers!
nibbbs
